Basic Input Output System (BIOS)

The BIOS is a special software usually stored on a Flash memory chip on the motherboard. It is used by the microprocessor (processor) to get the computer system started after it is turned on. It also manages data flow between the computer's operating system and attached devices such as the hard disk, video adapter, keyboard, mouse, printer etc. When BIOS boots up (starts up) the computer, it first determines whether all of the attachments are in place and operational and then it loads the operating system (or key parts of it) into the computer's random access memory (RAM) from hard disk or diskette drive.

The BIOS uses CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor) technology to save any changes made to the computer's settings. A small lithium or Ni-Cad cell, installed on the motherboard, supplies power to keep the data for years. To enter the CMOS Setup for altering custom settings of a computer, a certain key during the initial startup sequence is required to be pressed. Most systems use "Del," or "F1," keys to enter CMOS setup.

On entering CMOS setup, a text menu screen, the contents of which are different for different BIOS manufacturers, is displayed. The menu screen provides links for opening pages for changing various BIOS settings of the computer. These menus enable change of the following

• System Time/Date
• Drive Configuration
• Boot Sequence - setting the order of boot devices;
• Plug and Play;
• Integrated peripherals;
• Advanced chipset features;
• Setting password for computer access;
• Power Management etc.

The changes to CMOS setup must be made very carefully. Incorrect settings may stop the computer from booting.

Troubleshooting A Printer

-If you own a printer that sees a lot of action you most likely have had problems with it. Most of the troubleshooting in a printer is the software of the settings of the printer in your software. The second culprit is just dirt and grime. This is called preventive maintenance for the most part. People simply do not clean there work space nor there printers. Laser Printers -Laser printers are the worst for getting nasty and causing all kinds of problems in printing. The first thing you should look into is cleaning the printer. Using a paint brush (not a used one) and some compressed air and you are in business. A Q-tip here and there is also a good idea. -The main reason a laser printer will act up is the toner itself. The toner is loaded with iron oxide making it somewhat dirty to begin with and abrasive. The static charges that are involved in laser printing can attract dust on top of all the other problems. Clean your printer! -Also a note about cleaning the printer is never use liquid or a liquid solvent when cleaning. You are running a risk of making things worse. Use a clean paint brush and Q-tips. Ink Jet -Your most typical problems with the inkjet printer isn't so different from the laser. You will also get a build up of dirt, hair, paper, and any other act of god on the inside. Cleaning a ink jetprinter is a breeze and should be done with compressed air. Getting Out Easy -Here are some easy outs when diagnosing the printer and what the problem is. 1.     Check the printer cable first off. 2.     Check power. This sounds stupid but it happens. 3.     Check and make sure printer is online. 4.     Check paper, toner, ink. These are common to go out and need replacement. 5.     Try a print test page. There may be a button on the printer itself that will do a test page for you. If the page prints out you know that the problem isn't the printer itself. 6.     Look at your printer settings. Make sure you are sending to the proper printer. Is the right one installed? 7.     Inspect any pass through device such as parallel switchers. Inspect the cable itself. I have bought new printer cables that were faulty. Not So Easy Outs -Well now you have to get to the nitty gritty. -We want to see first off if the printer is properly installed. Follow the steps below. 1.     Go to control panel in windows and select Printers. 2.     Select your printer and then click file, properties. 3.     Choose Details 4.     Look and see if the printer is pointed towards LPT1 port. If not then change it. -Now if that isn't the problem and the printer is pointing towards the LPT1 port we need to look at Windows Device Manager. 1.     Go to control panel windows and select Systems. 2.     Select Device Manager Tab. 3.     Look down the list and sport ports. Double click. 4.     Check for any exclamation points or a question mark. If this exist you may have a conflict. 5.     If so double click the port with the problem and choose resources tab. 6.     Under the resources tab look at the last box. Does it say "conflicts"? 7.     If a conflict exist simply uncheck "automatic settings" and click "Change settings" 8.     You can now change the IRQ. If unsure which to try then click one at a time and see if it will show a conflict on the return dialog box. -If you changed an IRQ setting you will need to go into the BIOS and change this also. 1.     Reboot Computer, hit delete key or corresponding setup key before windows starts. 2.     Look for peripheral settings and change the settings for the LPT1 port to what you changed in the windows device manager. -Hope that helped.

Desktop Processor Guide

The first specification listed for all computer systems on the market tends to be the processor that is the heart of the computer. Typically it will say the brand, model and speed of the processor in the spec sheet, but the marketing information may only list its speed rating. This can make it very difficult to determine how good a machine is. After all, one processor running at a specific speed may not run as well as a different model from the same manufacturer. That is why I've pieced together this list of categories to let you know how functional each processor is.

Outdated Processors

Processors that fall into this category are generally no longer in production by the manufacturers and are typically sold in either budget systems or older refurbished systems. Machines with these processors will typically take longer to run application and possibly might not even run some of software on the market today. It is best to try and avoid systems with these processors unless you want to use a computer for the very basic functions such as word processing and general web browsing.

·         AMD Athlon 64 (Non-Dual Core/X2 Models)

·         AMD Athlon 64 X2 (Older Socket A Models/DDR Memory RAM Models)

·         AMD Athlon XP

·         AMD Athlon X2

·         AMD Phenom X3 and X4 Series

·         AMD Sempron LE

·         Intel Core 2 Duo

·         Intel Core 2 Quad

·         Intel Celeron

·         Intel Celeron Dual-Core

·         Intel Pentium 4

·         Intel Pentium D

·         Intel Pentium Dual-Core E2000 and E3000 Series

Budget Processors

These are processors that may or may not be in production anymore by the manufacturers but are very inexpensive and functional. There are typically two types of processors that will fall into this category: older high-end processors no longer manufactured and new low end budget processors. Discontinued high-end processors typically provide a better bang for your buck functionally. While they may have a slightly lower clock speed, their architecture of the processor tends to allow them to actually perform better at most computing tasks than newer budget processors.

·         AMD Athlon II X2 240 and Higher

·         AMD Athlon II X3 440 and Higher

·         AMD Athlon II X4 620 and Higher

·         AMD Phenom II X2 545 and Higher

·         AMD Phenom II X3 705 and Higher

·         AMD Phenom II X4 810

·         Intel Core i3-2100 and Higher

·         Intel Core i3-530 and Higher

·         Intel Pentium E5400 and Higher

·         Intel Pentium G6950

·         Intel Pentium G620 and Higher

Middle Processors

This is the segment of the market that is probably the best overall value for your computing dollar. While they are not the fastest processors on the market, they still perform very well in all aspects of computing. They may not have the total functional lifespan of the highest end processors, but the price to performance ratio tends to outweigh their longevity.

·         AMD Phenom II X4 945 and Higher

·         AMD Phenom II X6 1045T and Higher

·         Intel Core i5-2300 and Higher

·         Intel Core i5-650 and Higher

·         Intel Core i5-750 and Higher

·         Intel Core i7-2600 and Higher

·         Intel Core i7-860 and Higher

·         Intel Core i7-920 and Higher

Top of the Line Processors

This is the cream of the crop when it comes to processing power. If you absolutely must have the best thing out there for your new computer than this is what you want to look at. It will cost you though. Generally the most recent processors from the manufacturer's come at a price premium of about double that of the middle processors. While the price is over double that of the middle processors, the performance tends to be only about 25-50% more at the best of times from their counterparts in the middle category.

·         AMD Phenom II X6 1090T and 1100T Black Edition

·         Intel Core i7-2600k

·         Intel Core i7-975 Extreme

·         Intel Core i7-980X Extreme

Advantages of using CFL lighting

Compact Fluorescent Light or CFL as they are commonly known as have increasing become the lighting of choice - be it in homes or offices. Let's look at the advantages of having CFL lighting over the normal bulbs. 

First consider the various environmental impacts of using CFL. I guess around 4 years back an EuropeanUnion ruling compelled all businesses in EU to dispose of most lamps, including fluorescent types in an environmentally considerate manner. This obligation now extends to USA and a host of other countries as well. 

Make sure you install 10% more light than you need as the light output falls off with age, also the light output will not reach maximum until they are at running temperature.

Flicker from CFL lamps should not be an issue when they are new as the frequency at which they operate is around 20,000 Hz, however, as they age the smoothing capacitor in the power supply of the lamp circuit looses its capacity and the 50Hz mains flicker may become apparent to some more sensitive people. The solution is to change the lamp OR run them off 240V DIRECT CURRENT from a battery supply charged by your UPS perhaps.

A regular bulb creates light by heating a tungsten wire to white hot. 90% of the energy consumed by the lamp is lost as heat into the surrounding environment. A typical incandescent (ordinary) bulb has an efficiency of 12 to 15 lumens per watt (12 Lm/w). In other words you only get 15 units of light for every unit of electricity you put in. Now compare this with a CFL. This lamp creates light by exciting atoms of mercury vapour, making them give off ultra violet light. This UV then hits the white coating on the inside of the lamp and is converted into the light we see. Very little heat is produced in this process, giving this type of lamp an efficiency of 60 Lm/w which is 4 or 5 times greater than the ordinary bulb. So a 20 watt CFL will give the same light as a 100 watt bulb at one fifth of the cost (or electricity used and lower carbon emissions etc). You can also use them as Shop Work Lights.

Also, CFLs last about 5 times longer than incandescent. In addition to cost savings you're also saving electricity which reduces the demand for new power plants.

There are those that still argue against them based on their mercury content, but it's just silly. The mercury level in bulbs today is so low as to run no risk to the user. Where it is a problem is when they're disposed of, so the best thing to do is recycle them properly.

So yes, they are worth it. LEDs will probably be the ideal light in the future but for now they have many hurdles to overcome (cost, lack of fill lighting). For at least the next 5 years, CFLs are the way to go.